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April 09, 2008

ルワンダ紀行(まずはケニアへ)

まずはケニアへ
 エミレーツ航空は大阪出発である。JALで夜の8時に羽田を出発し、関西空港でエミレーツに乗り換えて、深夜に出発した。エコノミーでも座席が比較的広く、何よりも座席の一が高くて、深く腰掛けると短足の私の足は床に届かないほどの高さだった。フットレストを使って何とか足を収めることができた。3月にはJAL、ANA、UA、エミレーツ、ケニア航空と五つの航空会社に乗ったが、エミレーツが一番きれいだった。たいしたことはないが、エコノミーでアメニティ・グッズをくれたのはエミレーツが初めてだ。
 ドバイで待つこと数時間、ナイロビ行きのエミレーツ航空に乗り換えて、数時間の飛行の後、ナイロビ空港に到着。暑いのかと思っていたら、飛行機から降りるとさわやかな風が吹いていた。ナイロビが高原にある都市であることをまずは風に感じた。
 航空機から歩いて空港に入った。空港はアメリカの小さな地方空港並みの規模だ。入国管理官に型通りに入国目的を訊かれ、観光と答え、何ら問題もなく通った。しかし、あとで、これがとんでもないまちがいだと気がついた。おかげで再度ビザの手数料を払うはめになった。
 入国審査にはCOMESA(東南部アフリカ共同市場)、EAC(東アフリカ共同体)の案内がでていた。不覚にも、これらが何を意味するのか、最初わからなかった。何らかの協定国の国民にはビザが免除されているのだろうとくらいしにしか思わなかった。無知は高くつく。
 到着ロビーに出ると、すぐに「空港公認」のタクシー案内所があった。羽田を出てほぼ一昼夜たっており一刻も早くホテルに行きたかった。「空港公認」信じて案内所に行った。案内所で1500ケニア・シリングを払うと、タクシー乗り場に案内され、タクシーに乗り込んだ。『地球の歩き方-東アフリカ』にみ特に目安となるようなタクシー料金について書いてなかったので、はたして高いのか安いのかよく分からなかった。
 結論からいうと、空港からはタクシー案内所を通してタクシーを雇うのが一番安全確実だ。空港案内所が手数料をとるので、値段はその分高くなる。タクシー運転手と直接交渉し値切れば1000から1100シリングでいくことができる。ただし、値段交渉をする手間、隙を考えると1500シリングは高くない。またタクシーの中で必ず運転手がどこかに行くのなら是非自分を呼んでくれと商売をはじめる。このとき交渉すれば、逆に都心から空港行きの料金を1100シリングまで下げることができる。
 都心までおよそ30分。空港近くは立派に舗装してあったが、道路の補修が行き届かないのが次第に悪路になり、車の揺れが激しくなる。また都心に近づくにつれて車の数が増え、中心部では大渋滞になった。渋滞の原因はマタツと呼ばれる乗合バスやタクシーだ。マタツのほとんどがトヨタかニッサンの中古のマイクロバスを使って、乗客をつめるだけつめて走っている。
 やがてナイロビの中心部にはいると、ウンル・パークとセントラル・パークの二つの大きな公園が左手に見えてきた。公園の上空には大きな鳥が舞い、木々には彼らの巣が数多くみられた。自然に溢れているような情景だが、実際には東京都心上空をカラスが舞っているのと同じような感覚だ。多数の車の騒音、道路に溢れんばかりに行き交う人々。排気ガス規制やCO2の削減などどこ吹く風のすさまじいまでの排気ガス。発展途上国ではおなじみに混乱と無秩序のカオスの状況だ。
 市の中心部にはいると、マタツが規制されて進入できないためにタクシーは比較的スムースに走り、やがてヒルトン・ホテルに到着した。
 驚いたことに、ヒルトン・ホテルの前の道路50メートルはゲートで封鎖されており、ホテルにはいる車は全てトランクを開け、車体の下を鏡で調べる爆弾検査を受けている。ホテルの玄関前に車をつけて、いよいよホテルに入ろうとすると、ここでも再びボディ・チェックを受けることになる。空港にある金属探知機をくぐり、ガードマンのボディ・チェックを受けてやっとレセプションで、現地時間夕方6時にチェックイン。ここまで日本をでてから、28時間。
 一息ついて、レストランでバイキング形式の夕食を摂る。夕食時だというのに、ほとんど客がいない。私を含めて、7~8人。その中に数人の中国語を話す若い女性グループがいた。観光目的とも思えない服装だ。ナイロビも含めて、行く先々でアジア系の人々をみかけたが、ほとんどが中国系だ。ナイロビでも、物売りがかけてくる言葉は「ニーハオ」である。いかに中国人がアフリカに進出しているかがよく分かる。
 ヒルトン・ホテルは危険地帯といわれるダウンタウンに接しており、ホテルの部屋からダウンタウンを見下ろすことができた。印象を一言でいえば、アメリカのハーレムのような黒人街だ。ストリート・ベンダーが所狭しと路上にジャンクを並べ、多くの人がせわしげに行き交う、喧騒の街だ。ヒルトン・ホテルが警備を強化しているのはダウンタウンに接しているからかもしれない。
(続く)

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